“As for me, I am tormented with an everlasting itch for things remote." - Melville
Friday, February 5, 2010
My first Real Earthquake
I was comfortably falling asleep in my tent last night, while camped at the Brod Bay beach campsite along the Kepler track. Right as I was falling asleep, the waves on the bay starting picking up and I felt the ground calmly rocking back and forth. It felt as though I was on some sort of amusement park ride. It was a surreal experience to be on the ground and have it move.
Turns out the quake was a 5.1 and had an epicenter about 70 km from where I was in Te Anau.
Here's the link:
http://neic.usgs.gov/neis/bulletin/neic_siav_l.html
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Friday, January 22, 2010
Antarctic "Traverse" - Sort of...
Today was my last scheduled day at WAIS Divide, and my scheduled
departure date. Unfortunately the flight back to McMurdo was canceled
and sent to the Byrd camp instead. The good news, however, is that I
instead got to accompany our mechanic Rick out on a 42 mile (84 mile
round-trip) traverse from camp. When the Penn State guys came back
from their Thwaites Glacier traverse, they had to dump a sled full of
fuel about 42 miles from camp because the Tucker's differential went
haywire. After fixing it at WAIS, RIck needed someone to accompany
him out to pick up the sled and bring it back to camp. Since I had no
flight, I happily volunteered. This turned out to be an incredible
opportunity.
I realize that this experience is a far cry from the 200+ mile
traverse the other guys went on, but for me, driving 42 miles up and
over the ice divide and down Thwaites was pretty damn exciting. The
weather was perfect until we hit the divide about 18 miles from camp.
Immediately, the visibility dropped to nearly zero, and we were
driving completely on GPS. Going about 15 miles per hour, we hit the
sled about 3 hours in and hooked everything up. On the way back we
stopped 22 miles from camp to pick up one last stray empty fuel drum
that was left on the ice, and I got to drive the last 20 miles back
into camp.
While we were out at the fuel sled I paused for a brief moment and
realized that it was (and may be for the rest of my life), the most
remote place on the planet I have ever been. It was a rather mind
numbing notion.
Never I have been happier that my flight was canceled ;-)
For those of you wondering and want to google earth it, here are the
coordinates (in decimal degrees):
WAIS: 112.085 W, 79.467 S
Fuel Sled: 111.03581 W, 78.90150 S
departure date. Unfortunately the flight back to McMurdo was canceled
and sent to the Byrd camp instead. The good news, however, is that I
instead got to accompany our mechanic Rick out on a 42 mile (84 mile
round-trip) traverse from camp. When the Penn State guys came back
from their Thwaites Glacier traverse, they had to dump a sled full of
fuel about 42 miles from camp because the Tucker's differential went
haywire. After fixing it at WAIS, RIck needed someone to accompany
him out to pick up the sled and bring it back to camp. Since I had no
flight, I happily volunteered. This turned out to be an incredible
opportunity.
I realize that this experience is a far cry from the 200+ mile
traverse the other guys went on, but for me, driving 42 miles up and
over the ice divide and down Thwaites was pretty damn exciting. The
weather was perfect until we hit the divide about 18 miles from camp.
Immediately, the visibility dropped to nearly zero, and we were
driving completely on GPS. Going about 15 miles per hour, we hit the
sled about 3 hours in and hooked everything up. On the way back we
stopped 22 miles from camp to pick up one last stray empty fuel drum
that was left on the ice, and I got to drive the last 20 miles back
into camp.
While we were out at the fuel sled I paused for a brief moment and
realized that it was (and may be for the rest of my life), the most
remote place on the planet I have ever been. It was a rather mind
numbing notion.
Never I have been happier that my flight was canceled ;-)
For those of you wondering and want to google earth it, here are the
coordinates (in decimal degrees):
WAIS: 112.085 W, 79.467 S
Fuel Sled: 111.03581 W, 78.90150 S
Saturday, January 2, 2010
2009 - The year of the Defense, Dizzying Runs, the Down-Under, Driving-the-West, & Decisions
The Great White Nothing - WAIS Divide, Antarctica
First Sun Dogs of 2010
New Years Day 2009 I found myself standing outside the galley in -15C temps with nothing but jeans and a t-shirt on screaming "Happy New Year"!. I was standing on the West Antarctic Ice Sheet at the WAIS Divide camp in what was my first field season down here.
New Year's Day 2009
New Year's Day 2009
The season ended up being an incredible experience where I learned a lot about ice-core science, made many new friends and connections, and had an experience I will never forget. When I left camp at the end of January, I had my eager eyes set on some New Zealand hiking! I ended up spending over 3 weeks touring and hiking all around the South Island and Stewart Island. I hiked the Cascade Saddle Track, Northwest Circuit (on Stewart Island), the Kepler Track, and the Wilkin-Young Track. All were unbelievable. Towards the end, I spent a few days road-touring in a rental car and got to see some very cool sights around New Zealand, like the pancake rocks, Fox Glacier, glow-worms, Arthur's Pass, etc. All in all, it was a pretty damn good way to start the year.
Wilkin-Young Track, New Zealand
Cascade Saddle Track, New Zealand
When I got back to Penn State my mind shifted rather quickly to two concurrent goals......Write and defend my thesis by October WHILE training for my first 100 miler in July. I spent February through May fine-tuning and double-checking my data and results and writing a basic outline for my thesis. On the side I was stepping up my running and re-ran the Pocono Marathon in mid-may....shattering my old PR with a time of 3:39 (still my best marathon time). In June I headed out with 27 undergrads and one other grad student to TA 3 weeks of undergraduate fieldcamp. This was an incredible teaching experience, and allowed me to see some of the most beautiful areas out West. We toured through Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana.
Book Cliffs, Utah (with 27 Undergrads)
Grand Tetons, Wyoming
Old Faithful, Wyoming
In mid July I had competed the first two sections of my thesis draft and headed off to Silver Hill Meadow, VT to try to finish my first 100 miler. 23 hrs and 15 minutes after the start, I crossed the finished line with my first 100 mile completion and belt buckle...and promptly collapsed from utter exhaustion. By early August, my thesis was beginning to take shape. I kept at it until late August when I headed out to Leadville Colorado to run my second 100 miler in 5 weeks....the Leadville 100. My goal for this race was simply to finish in 30 hours or less. 29 hrs later, I again crossed the finish line...barely. The altitude nearly did me in. I am forever indebted to both Kati and Elizabeth for crewing and pacing for me during this insane race.
Mile 70 at the Vermont 100
Finish at the Vermont 100
Mile 16, Leadville 100
Finish Line, Leadville 100
When I got home, September became the high-stress thesis writing month. I spent every day writing for hours trying to fine tune my draft so that I could defend on October 6th. I wrapped up my draft at the end of the month and headed out to the WAIS Divide science meeting in La Jolla California. While everyone was spending free time on the beach, I was preparing my defense presentation. The good part was that I got to talk with a lot of faculty from different schools that I ended up applying to. I learned about several good projects that are going on now...and that are funded (if I choose to leave penn state).
I came back from the meeting on oct 5th, and defended the next day.......result: PASS! Not only a pass, but I only had to make a few minor revisions before submitting to the graduate office. October became my de-stress month. I tried to enjoy the 3 weeks of post-defense time as much as possible. I spent a lot of time with friends, and drinking coffee, and mental-vacationing. I started taking care of my Antarctica prep and packing on the side, as my deployment date was quickly coming up on Nov 2nd.
On Halloween, I said goodbye to everyone and headed to Rochester NY to begin my 2nd journey down south. Made it to New Zealand in no time, and then spent 18 days in McMurdo waiting for weather to clear up at WAIS Divide. I celebrated my birthday in Antarctica, finally made it out to WAIS Divide on Nov 24th, and celebrated Thanksgiving here. for the past month, I've been busy packing ice cores, and taking physical properties samples for the I-168 grant (my advisor's grant).
Today I sit here on our day off and I've been thinking a lot about the past year. I wonder if I accomplished enough, or would have made the old man proud or not. I look back to 2005 and 2006 and remember how I couldn't possibly get any lower....and somehow i've ended up where I have today. I can't help but be somewhat content. There was high probability 4 years ago that I might not have made it out of what seemed like an infinitely deep mental/physical/emotional pit....and yet here I am. I am a firm believer that we learn a lot more about ourselves when painful/bad things happen to us or around us. I also believe that we become stronger and more focused on what exactly it is that is important in this infinitesimally small sliver of existence we get here on this planet. There was a time when I was very lost....and now my compass has at least found magnetic north. I haven't necessarily headed right for it, but at least I know where it is now.
as far as 2010....well...a lot more is going to happen, and I can't wait. I have some ideas in my mind of what I would like to accomplish, but at this point, I'm just going to let some cards fall where they will and see what falls into place.
so a toast to a fun and exciting 2009, and a hopeful 2010! *clink*
-john
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Thursday, December 17, 2009
WAIS Divide Sea Level Approaching!
Greetings again from WAIS Divide. We've moved to three shifts and we are drilling like maniacs. We are now regularly pulling up 3.4 meter cores each run (over 1 meter longer than last year). When we reach a depth of about 1750 meters, we will be somewhere near sea level....so...we are all having a "Sea level party" this weekend. Everyone brought beachside attire and beach-themed items and we are going to celebrate being over half-way to the bottom of the ice sheet. Should be fun.
Otherwise, things are pretty routine now. I've been getting samples on a regular basis that I have to mount and prepare for next summer at the NICL. Also, several people have left camp already, including Bruce and Geoff. Christmas is one week away, and people are getting excited about that. Looking forward to a nice dress-up dinner and some gift exchanging.
I'm missing AGU back home right now where a lot of my grad student and faculty cohorts are presenting their research and posters, and giving talks (including my advisor).
I've been running pretty regularly here up and down the skiway (much more than last year). It's hard to keep it up though. It's very boring and very cold.
Thats about it, I'll try to update again soon.
-john
Saturday, December 12, 2009
First Week at WAIS
Things are progressing here. We've drilled our first ice cores and everyone is happy. Today is Sunday, so we all have off. All in all, everyone is in good spirits and we are all excited christmas is close. The season starts in full 3 shift mode tomorrow! Here are some pic highlights from this week:
I got to sit in the cockpit of the DC-3 Basler. It wasn't to much different than the Cessnas I've flown

Image of the Instruments
view of tent city on a cloudless evening
Dug a backlit snow pit
After I sampled it (density and isotopes)
We drilled our first core of the season!
First core of 09/10 season
I got to marshall in an LC-130 Herc plane. Basically this
means I stood on the skiway and directed it in.
One of the other core handlers broke her leg right before coming
down, so carved her name in snowblocks and set her this pic.
Friday, December 4, 2009
Some WAIS photos! (very low res)
Getting on the LC-130 in McMurdo
Hey everyone! I was able to use some compression software to shrink some of my photos way down so that I could post them. Here are a couple...
My plush tent this year!
Thanksgiving Pies!!!!
JP building an igloo single handedly
32 full boxes of ice cores ready for shipment (128 cores)
backside of camp
An LC-130 Herc AND a Basler both on the skiway
(WAIS international airport!)
IDDO guys testing their RAM drill
Rebecca (Penn State) getting ready to head out on Cresis traverse
Sridhar and Luke (Basler in background) getting ready
to head out on Cresis Traverse
In front of the WAIS Sign (before it was moved to Galley)
Bess's birthday cakes!
Fellow Penn State Cresis guys heading out on traverse
Have a great season guys!
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Quick Update from WAIS Divide
Greetings everyone (sorry no pics this round),
I have made it safely to WAIS Divide and we have been hard at work here. Since arriving 1 week ago, we have busily been packing up and palletizing ice cores from last season so that they can be shipped out on LC-130 herc flights back to mcmurdo, where they'll stay until February when they will finally all get shipped back to the US on large shipping vessel.
All of the rest of the group has arrived here, and we are all getting along quite well. At the current pace, we should have all of last year's core packed up by early next week. The drillers are estimating being able to start drilling new core around Dec 12th, which lines up nicely with our schedule.
Once we start drilling new core, I will begin cutting and mounting small samples of ice on glass plates that will be used to study physical properties of the core. I used similar samples that were mounted 2 years ago, as the basis for my Masters Research.
Things are settling in otherwise. I celebrated my birthday at McMurdo, and Thanksgiving here at WAIS. Believe it or not, we had a huge dinner, replete with turkey and wine. Quite a feast. Christmas is only a few short weeks away, and then New Years. It seems that the season is already flying by (considering I've been away from home now for over a month).
It is truly great to be back here. I spent the last few evening walking around away from camp on the wide open ice sheet and it is easy to remember why I like studying this place. Don't get me wrong though, I do miss people back home too.
Obviously the very limited internet is back up here, but it is just that...very limited. I will do my best to update, but it will be sketchy.
I hope to post a few low res pics here in the near future so stay tuned.
so long from WAIS Divide, and I will write again soon.
-Antarctic John
I have made it safely to WAIS Divide and we have been hard at work here. Since arriving 1 week ago, we have busily been packing up and palletizing ice cores from last season so that they can be shipped out on LC-130 herc flights back to mcmurdo, where they'll stay until February when they will finally all get shipped back to the US on large shipping vessel.
All of the rest of the group has arrived here, and we are all getting along quite well. At the current pace, we should have all of last year's core packed up by early next week. The drillers are estimating being able to start drilling new core around Dec 12th, which lines up nicely with our schedule.
Once we start drilling new core, I will begin cutting and mounting small samples of ice on glass plates that will be used to study physical properties of the core. I used similar samples that were mounted 2 years ago, as the basis for my Masters Research.
Things are settling in otherwise. I celebrated my birthday at McMurdo, and Thanksgiving here at WAIS. Believe it or not, we had a huge dinner, replete with turkey and wine. Quite a feast. Christmas is only a few short weeks away, and then New Years. It seems that the season is already flying by (considering I've been away from home now for over a month).
It is truly great to be back here. I spent the last few evening walking around away from camp on the wide open ice sheet and it is easy to remember why I like studying this place. Don't get me wrong though, I do miss people back home too.
Obviously the very limited internet is back up here, but it is just that...very limited. I will do my best to update, but it will be sketchy.
I hope to post a few low res pics here in the near future so stay tuned.
so long from WAIS Divide, and I will write again soon.
-Antarctic John
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)